They call it Setember over here*

In Costa Rican schools the month of September combines Independence Day, Civics Week, Children's Day, and testing for the end of the second trimester. When I learned that the already short school day would be chopped in half to accommodate dance, theater, choir, and drum practice, as well as tamale making for fundraisers, I despaired that teaching would become impossible. This fear became reality as Children's Day turned out to be a day set aside for eating ice cream, taquitos, and letting children blow whistles and run amok around the school. The teachers had embarked on halfhearted attempts to organize a soccer tournament, but after four subsequent referees were found lacking in either skill or impartiality (my tenure fell victim to the first complaint) the results were annulled and games of tag, hide-and-go-seek, and ring-around-the-rosy ('el barco se hunde' in Spanish) became the norm until lunchtime, when the children were sent home amidst heavy sighs of relief.

Children's Day capped off Civic Week, which took the form of daily school assemblies (the afternoon ones in the blazing sun, or pouring rain) each one focusing on a different part of Costa Rican Patriotism. I was fascinated by everything, from the reasons why a country so rich in birds would choose an unremarkable brown robin as its National Bird (why not a Scarlet Macaw? or a gorgeous Hummingbird? - Answer: its plainness belies its beautiful song), to the history of the 'Escudo' of Costa Rica and its rules of use (one of the first is an odd picture of a man's right chest and arm, without the rest of the body). I think I was the only person who was not bored out of his mind, even the teachers (all gathered under the shade, leaning out only to shush the cooked and miserable students every couple of seconds) were hardly able to stifle their yawns. One of the teachers was so ashamed by the lack of enthusiasm she pointed out that I sang the words of the Costa Rican national anthem, while almost everyone else remained silent. This caused a lot of eye-rolling, but also galvanized the students into a slightly less lackluster performance.

Then came September 15th, which is Independence Day for Costa Rica and most of Central America as well. The story as it is told in Costa Rica is that a brave woman on the night of September 14th, 1821 gathered a group of citizens together in the main square of the capital of Guatemala (then the capital of Central America) to pressure the leaders to declare

independence. They all carried lanterns lit from a single torch, and once the declaration was signed a series of messengers ran with the torch throughout Central America proclaiming Independence, and lighting 'freedom lanterns' in all the houses of the former colony. Costa Rica commemorates that event by having students carry torches throughout the country on the 14th of September, so that at 6 PM that day people gather together at the schools to sing the National Anthem(s) and reenact 'La Noche de los Faroles' (the night of the lanterns).

At a meeting in one of my schools I was voted 'most likely to be able to run a mile' and so became the teacher in charge of shepherding the torch to the school. I knew not what to expect as we walked through the drizzling rain to the bridge where we would meet the torch as it progressed along the entire length of the Peninsula, but I was prepared for the hour and a half of waiting in the rain. The kids and I sang Costa Rican patriotic songs, and I taught them the first few lines of 'America the Beautiful' and 'This Land is Your Land'. Quite suddenly sirens interrupted the pattering of raindrops and a group of bicyclists wearing White, Blue and Red (NOT Red, White, and Blue, as has been pointed out to me on many occasions) screamed by ahead of a small motorcade. First came the District Supervisor's pick-up truck, then a police car, then a small group of students with the torch, and then an ambulance, a bus full of high schoolers who were too tired to continue running, and the large pack of students who took turns running and riding the bus. The torchbearer stopped, handed the torch to a sixth grader who we had chosen to carry it first, and then we were off!

I kept the torch rotating between the different grades, and made sure the order was always boy, girl, boy, girl. Running alongside the sputtering torch through the drizzle was very pleasant, and as we approached the school the sun leapt out and shone on a small crowd of parents that had gathered to watch the arrival of the torch. A small 4th grade girl had the honor of carrying the torch into the school and lighting a larger flame, and everyone gathered round and sang the national anthem. Then the High Schoolers took the torch and set off down the road while the torchbearers from my school and I sped home on our bikes to prepare for the 'Noche de los Faroles' later than evening.

Every child in Costa Rica has to bring a farol (lantern) to the 'Noche de los Faroles', it counts as half of their civics grade every year. Most of them are houses with velum paper over the windows to make the light blue or red. My host niece began planning hers two weeks before, and the final product, although finished hastily hours before the ceremony, followed the plan and turned out well. My host sister made Joan a little farol of his own, to carry at the ceremony.

The sunset that day was graced with a gorgeous double rainbow, with all the colors gradually fading to the vivid pink of tropical pacific sunsets. As the emerging stars pricked the sky to dark blue parents started lighting their children's faroles. The variety was impressive, from Ox-carts to two-story houses, to antique cast iron stormcandles. Unfortunately the eternal curse of nighttime school activities befell this ceremony: as soon as the lights went out control was completely lost. The grand entrance was marred by several teachers each organizing the students differently, and the complicated processions that had been sketchily practiced over the previous weeks fell apart when confronted with groups of parents milling around the makeshift parade ground. All that aside, the beauty of the bobbing lanterns at dusk was always the focus point of the ceremony, and no amount of confusion and frustration could truly ruin such an occasion.

The next day was Independence Day, and I was astonished that everything went off without a problem. We sang the 'Salute to the Flag' and then the 'National Anthem' and then 'Hymn to September 15th' and then the 'Hymn to Juan Santamaría' and then 'Hymn to the Battle of Santa Rosa', those last apparently two just to amp up the level of nationalism at the event, since we had already celebrated those days. All of the songs are beautiful, and the lyrics are quite moving, but they are played far too frequently, and the medley goes on for about 7 minutes too long. The dances were my favorite part of the ceremony, it made me so proud to see my students performing complicated movements, and swishing their long dresses around. I had gone to the first practice to set up the music for the teacher, and seeing how much they improved in such a short time was thrilling. The poetry was adorable, especially when the kindergartner's goggled at the audience and tripped through their lines, even then some of them seemed like trained actors compared to the third grader's stammering stage fright. The ceremony ended with another round of patriotic songs, and everyone went off home.

The most surprising part of all the ceremonies was how little most participants seemed to actually feel patriotic. The songs were sung half-heartedly, less than half of the parents managed to stop their conversations during the national anthem, even fewer knew the words to any of the patriotic songs. In a country with as many things to be proud of as Costa Rica (gorgeous wildlife, a strong democracy, no armed forces, the strongest economy in Central America, a strong system of national parks, etc.) it is odd that displays of patriotism should seem so antiquated and feel so forced. Watching the empty pageantry of another country's nationalism made me realize again how proud I am to be an American.

*Another reason is that we don't usually change the spelling of months - Costa Rica's Royal Academy of Spanish recently pushed through the spelling 'Setiembre' for 'Septiembre'.